Ask the Doctors

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Q I have bronze skin, and where I live is always hot. Even though I always use sunscreen (SPF 50) on my face, redness still appears on my cheeks. What advice can you give me?

Response from Dr. Valerie Callender, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Howard University and founding member of the Skin of Color Society:

Although the redness usually found in rosacea is often masked by darker skin, other potential rosacea symptoms -- such as bumps, pimples, stinging and eye irritation -- are just as noticeable in patients of all skin types. Be sure to let your doctor know about your persistent redness, as well as any other symptoms you may be experiencing. He or she may need to adjust your skin care regimen and recommend medical therapy.

As hot weather is one of the most common factors that trigger rosacea flare-ups, you may need to make an extra effort to avoid the sun and heat or at least limit your exposure during midday as those two elements are often rosacea triggers. Other options when possible may be to drape a cool, damp towel around your neck and chew on ice chips if you feel yourself starting to flush. You can also lightly mist your face with a spray bottle filled with cold water. In addition to sunscreen, wearing a wide-brimmed hat outdoors also may be helpful.

To cover visible redness, you may want to consider using a green-toned, color-corrective moisturizer or makeup foundation. Sheer green or yellow foundation or pre-foundation creams can also help neutralize the appearance of redness and keep it from showing through.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Q Is there any product to help the burning feeling in my face?

Response from Dr. Zoe Draelos, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine, with a research interest in cosmetics, toiletries and biologically active skin medications, and author of the textbook Cosmetics in Dermatology:

While there is no medical therapy that targets the burning feeling in your face, avoiding products that burn or sting and following a careful skin-care regimen can substantially reduce or eliminate the problem.

Burning or stinging is a common aspect of rosacea, and stinging reactions to facial products may be especially common in patients with subtype 1 (erythematotelangiectatic) rosacea, characterized by flushing and redness.

Because sensitivities may vary among individuals, the best way to determine what may irritate your particular condition is to try a product on a peripheral area such as the neck to see if a reaction occurs. If you have a reaction, avoid the product and note the ingredients. In addition, formulations are now available that are designed to soothe sensitive skin and avoid irritation, and you may wish to try these with the same self-test.

In addition to identifying and avoiding any skin-care and cosmetic products that cause stinging, the cornerstone to ensuring that skin remains calm and non-reactive is a daily facial skin-cleansing routine that avoids irritation. Moderation in temperature and touch is the watchword: wash the face with water that is lukewarm; use a gentle, non-soap cleanser; and use the fingers rather than the rougher washcloth.

You may not know that skin is more sensitive when wet, and therefore should be completely dry before applying medication to avoid irritation. Initially wait up to 30 minutes after washing before applying topical therapy or skin-care products. Later, the 30 minutes may be reduced by five-minute increments until you have identified the minimal time you need to avoid stinging. Wait five to 10 minutes after applying topical therapy before following up with moisturizers or cosmetics.